Two years ago I took a walk from Skagen in Northern Jutland to Tornby and since then I have had a desire to return and revisit the heath covered dunes, as well as experiencing the openness and a sense of isolation. This trip incorporated my new perspective on wandering and visiting “wild places” spending time in locations that feel right to me providing a sense of belonging. Even with a 6 hour train journey I had a sense of wanting to return to the area where I could just “hang out”.
I set off from Hulsig station soon stopping at the church, before heading along the asphalted cycle path. I was quickly passed by a number of cyclist who were out enjoying the afternoon sunshine. Turning onto a horse riding trail I headed into Bunken Plantage (forest), and was soon climbing and descending small dunes in the low pine forest. Passing by a small lake I then swung eastward towards Råbjerg Mile, the largest migratory dune in northern Europe, having visited the dune on my previous trip. Before long I was on a bitumen road and understood why the forest was called Bunken. There were many of these bunkers in the area, all locked up with large keep out signs.
Having passed by several of these bunkers I returned to the gravel paths as I approached Råbjerg Mile, it was evident to me that there were families on the dune as the sounds of youngsters laughing and chatting reverberated around the area.
Heading towards a location which I had camped at on my last visit I located a sheltered spot which provided views of the dune in the evening sunshine. I laid back and relaxed, watching a flock of small birds as they flew in and out of the trees before continuing on their merry way. As I lay there I reflected on the many years of backpacking in many different countries realising that the feeling of being outdoors, as well as the solitude in combination with being a spectator as the birds, animals and insects went about their daily lives, was why I went backpacking.
With the tent up it was coffee time.
After which, I spent time just watching the world go by before the sun gradually sunk towards the horizon, lighting up the dunes
Providing various pattern on the cuben,
after which it provided a grand finale.
It was a pleasant evening, and as predicted winds and rain arrived during the night and I awoke to a some what damp and cool morning, with only short distance planned I took my time before packing and heading towards the coast.
I took my time as I wandered across the dunes, accompanied by the occasional passing shower and wind gust
I admired the flowers and the berries.
Finally deciding to stop and take in the view after a rain storm had passed through.
My plan was to visit Råbjerg church, and stop for lunch, and it was at this point I decided that I had walked far enough and to returned to my previous campsite.
Having returned to the camp site, I relaxed with a cup of coffee as a small private jet flew low over the area, the noise of the jet engines were soon drowned out by the sounds of birds rising enmasse from the lake, however, their “squawking” soon subsided as they descended once again to the peace and quiet of the lake surface. Setting off after dinner under grey skies I wandered off to the top of Råbjerg Mile, it was somewhat gloomy and with a cold wind from the east I was well rugged up. The view out to the North Sea as well as to the Baltic Sea, provided a wonderful perspective on this beautiful area.
As I returned to camp the sun began to set, but a shaft of light had me lingering before descending into the forest and to bed.
The morning was cool and grey as I climbed away from Lille Råbjerg Sø heading to the Railways Station
Heading further into the forest, I was intrigued to see the forest ants mound and the trail to the mound
I took a closer look at the mound
One final look at the sky,
before passing through the forest park gate. Interestingly, there was a sign warning of the dangers of Quicksand around Råbjerg Mile, the only sign I had seen. I wondered why there were not other signs closer to the dune.