Fjordstien Part 2: Hammer Bakke (almost) to Holbæk

I had been wanting to return to complete the section of coastline from Hammer Bakke to Holbæk for quite a while, but other priorities hindered my plans. As a result it was not until late March before I was able to return. Instead of starting at Hammar Bakke I chose to travel to Vellerup , with its easy bus access,  and connect with the Fjordstien adjacent to the church.

I headed south, entering Egeholm forest following minor trails ultimately arriving at the coastline of Vellerup Vig (inlet). I then settled in to watch the last rays of sunlight disappear.


After a cool damp night, I set off early, following the trail as it wound its way around the coast before heading inland passing a stone circle.


Whilst I was tempted to continue to follow the coastline, I chose the minor country roads passing through Kyndeløse before finally returning to the coastline. It was here that the trail seemed to follow the coastline as it weaved its way through the tall grass adjacent to the waterline. From now on I was determined to stay as close to the coast as possible. The changing textures of the beach provided less than pleasant walking, however, the views out to sea more than compensated for the rocky beaches.


I stopped at the quiet fishing village of Ejby Havn as a boat glided through the calm waters of the protected harbour, further along the coast I wandered through the dormant swimming area overlooking Bramsnæs isthmus.  At some point the trail was to turn inland towards a road, which was not my preferred option, sadly I missed the sign and instead continued around the coastline hugging the shoreline to ensure that I did not stray onto private land. In bad weather this route would not be recommended.


Having circumnavigated almost the entire length of  Bramsnæs bay I was left with one challenge a 50 metre wide mud flat. I set out on a course directly across the flat, hoping that the mud was not too deep, and there was no other unexpected pitfalls. I made it to the other side, with very muddy shoes and one rubber foot from a pacer pole missing, presumably grabbed by the “mud trolls” as I passed. I was soon climbing away from the mud flat accompanied by the ever present aroma of “mud flat” crossing over the road to Bramsnæs isthmus I quickly descended to the sandy coastline and washed the aroma away. Now I was following the coast toward the road bridge which connects Ejby and Holbæk.


Crossing the bridge I was impressed by the varying colours in the sand, something those in cars would not have seen.


I entered Eriksholm forest and then Dragerup Forest, the home to the former Naval Sea Mine and Torpedo testing station. At this point the trail turned inland, but not to be defeated, I decided to continue along the old road past several munitions bunkers, ultimately, I reached the end of the forest. Here I found a trail adjacent to the golf course and having avoided all the mishit golf balls I returned to the coastline. As I approached the Holbæk Marina, it was apparent that summer was coming, as some boats were being dispatched to the sea, while others were being cleaned and painted.  The coastal path meandered through the wide expanses of the reclaimed land before turning inwards towards the city. I wandered down through the Saturday afternoon shopping crowd as they devoured each and every bargain, for me I was happy with a Pølser.

Before long, I was on the train and back home from what I would describe as a short overnighter. The most enduring memory for me will be the 10 ladies resplendent in Easter bunny ears carrying a range of canned beverages onto the train at Holbæk Station, given that it was 1 pm, I wondered what condition they would be in later in the day.

This entry was posted in Coastal Walking, Fjordstien, Tramplite Shelter and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to Fjordstien Part 2: Hammer Bakke (almost) to Holbæk

  1. Hanna says:

    Thanks for that lovely post!!! What a delight to see those well known surroundings again though I could have wish you a better hike without so many mud trolls 🙂
    You made me yearn to come back to those familiar paths.
    All the best,

    • Thanks Hanna, it is a very nice part of the coastline and I was fortunate to have sunny and somewhat warm weather. Yes you should return to those trails, as they are worth it. As for trolls well I can just hear one of them saying “Come here my precious” …

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