Fjordstien: Kulhuse Havn to Frederikssund

The Fjordstien is a series of trails which circumnavigate Roskilde and Isfjord, south of Copenhagen. A map of the trails can be found here. As the area is close to home it is easy to jump on a train and/or bus and soon be at a trail head. Having taken a train and bus I was soon in Kulhuse Havn, a ferry port, as the ferry does not run in winter and the area was quiet and a grey haze hung over the area.

I set off along the coast southwards. The trail hugged the coastline as I wandered through the reeds abutting the large summer houses. I was soon reminded of the December storm which had pushed the water levels well above the high water line and into the houses in the area. The sandbags remained as evidence of these times as did the stacks of furniture adjacent to the trail.  Soon I was entering forest and looking for a place to stay.
Having found a place I set up camp and then first drops of rain, an early night was in order. I awoke in the morning to blue skies, birdsong and one ‘head banging” woodpecker. Laying and relaxing in The Notch there seemed no need to rush.

Through the mesh

A leisurely breakfast followed by a wander around the area looking at the remnants (and is there is a lot) of the damage from the storm I eventually decided it was time to pack and head south.

Storm damage, calm pool

Nordskoven has many very old trees such as

Remnants of the Old Oak

An oak between 800 and 1000 years old which died in 1980, I was fascinated by the curves in its trunk.

Oak Waves

The oak in all its glory appears in the prize winning painting (The Old Oak Tree with Stork Nest in the North Forest near Jægerspris) by P C Skovgaard, 1843. Leaving one oak I was soon at the visiting the so called  “King Oak” one of the oldest living oaks in northern europe, with an age between 1500 and 2000 years old and whilst clearly suffering old age (in part due to the surrounding taller trees) it has clearly withstood the changing climatic conditions over the centuries.

King Oak

An alternate view

King Oak

Leaving the forest I ventured onto Dyrnæs Pier

Dyrnaes Pier

Where i spent time enjoying the sunshine and admiring the swans

Swans in Roskilde Fjord

Heading back to the shoreline I met a couple who inquired whether I had seen the sea eagle, sadly no was my response.

Dyrnaes Pier

I then followed King Frederik’s the 7th Alle

King Frederik 7th Alle

into the outskirts of Jagerpris, before descending through the forest and across Roskilde fjord to Frederikssund and then home, A short but enjoyable walk which has me already planning my next wander in the area.

This entry was posted in Coastal Walking, Denmark, Fjordstien, M.Zuiko 12 mm f2, M.Zuiko 17 mm f1.8, M.Zuiko 40-150 mm, Olympus EPL 5. Bookmark the permalink.

11 Responses to Fjordstien: Kulhuse Havn to Frederikssund

  1. I am fascinated by your nights in the open, and also a bit jealous 🙂 It's a good idea to start in Kulhuse at this time of year. Later in the year there are many holiday guests but of course you know that.

    I have been cycling a lot on Hornsherred, there are many small roads, and the fjord is never far away. It is a beautiful area and not overcrowded.

    Actually I have thought about making a post about the part continuing from Jægerspris further to the brigde, the forest is called Færgelunden. In the 1960' someone found a treasure called the Kitnæs Treasure. The place is also know as a motive for a famous danish painter Johan Thomas Lundbye; 'A Danish Coast' View from Kitnæs by the Roskilde Fjord, 1843.

    'Skuldelev Ås' is another great place for a 'mini hike' not far away from the bridge only farther south.

    Sorry about all my stuff. I like reading your post and looking forward to the next one.

    All the best,

  2. Thanks Hanna, sorry about nights in the open ; ) it is something I have enjoyed ever since way back when. I particularly chose this time of the year for the “quietness” between Kulhuse Havn and Jægerspris I only saw about 10 people, it would be much busier in warmer weather. From Jægerspris the trail takes you up into Færgelunden and from there I dropped down past the museum and across the bridge to the station.

    I took a mental picture of Skuldelev Ås when passing through the area by car recently, its on my list. I have actually considered cycling/camping around Hornsherred and it may still happen. For now my eyes are on the west coast of Hornsherred.

    Don't apologise your comments here and your blog posts at provides me with inspiration for my wanderings around Denmark.

  3. Thank you so much. I'm happy that I have been able to contribute with inspiration. That's making me proud consider it's coming from you 🙂

    When I think of Hornsherred there are a few particular places I keep close to my heart. Vellerup Vig is one of them. It's a former habour used by the vikings and there are rich traces from the past of high dolmens and passage graves. The other place is of course Ejby Ådal 🙂

    I can recommend cycling. That is a great way to explore the area the first time

    All the best,

  4. Roger, I see you are using the 'Notch'. Is that your 'lowland' shelter? Is there any reason for not using the MLD cricket (I am thinking of one).

  5. Hi Mark, I had the Cricket and sold it, because I felt the Notch more suited my needs. Weight wise the Cricket with cricket inner weighed 680 gms, and the Notch weighed 705 gms with the mesh inner, a part solid inner added an extra 55 gms. So from a weight perspective there was little difference, the only benefit of the Cricket was the ability to see out more easily than in the Notch, but, as an all round shelter the Notch is easy (fast) to erect, it packs small, it has withstood some harsh winds in lapland, there is enough space for me and my gear (including full length Neo Air All Seasons, entry via either door is a plus and with a part solid inner it cuts out a lot of the cross drafts. I expect to use the Notch on most trips. Furthermore the 2 pole design is one that appeals to me for stability in harsh weather, and combined with good anchoring (especially with the side tie outs) it is taught, admittedly you do get some flapping of the long sides, but I am less concerned by this. Hope that helps, otherwise feel free to ask more questions.

  6. Thanks Roger. My problem is the Notch is the wrong colour for England (it needs to blend in as oen can practise stealth camping) – apart from that it looks ideal. Now if only Henry shires could be persuaded!

  7. Whilst there are times I think about a different colour Tarptent I recognise that Henry will not make different colours or use different fabrics, why should he? He sells enough as it is. I stealth camp here in Dk and Se with grey shelters, all I need to do is ensure that I am not camped close to any trails especially dog walking trails, or be out of bed and fine by 7. I would rather an appropriate shelter, the colour is of lesser concern. YMMV.

  8. I certainly agree with what you say. I know many who wild camp in England prefer more blended greens/browns (particularly for open moorland or fell without any cover) and this can influence choice of shelter. An interesting point as well is that the Notch comes as a complete package, when you start to accesorise a Trailstar or Cricket with bug net or floor the initial eye catching cost of the tarp really starts to mount up.
    Getting up at 7, we've touched on that elsewhere this wee! 😉

  9. One other thing about the Notch that I did not mention is the inner you have a space of about 60 cm in width above your head whereas the Cricket inner slopes to the ground so you will soon be touching the mesh (not necessarily a problem) but I do feel more restricted in inners that came to a point. However, I do recognise your dilemma, what about a flat tarp and a bivy?

  10. I may well buy a flat tarp for woodland, fairly cheap and cheerful. I hear the Australian army basha is a good choice. I like the look of the Notch though and it's fit for Lapland too as I have seen from you trip reports.

  11. Pingback: Fjordstien Part 1: Jagerpris to Hammer Bakke | Nielsen Brown Outdoors

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