Four Lakes: Circumnavigating Værløse

Recently a glossy publication from Furesø Kommune (the local municipality) arrived on the doorstep containing all sorts of information about the municipality. Some locals were a little suspicious given that the council elections were coming. However, I was drawn to the centrefold, a glossy aerial photo of the area, complete with trails for outdoor activities and more. What I first noticed was that Værløse was almost surrounded by forest. There were also four major lakes and several minor ones on the outskirts of Værløse. A plan was made.


The plan involved visiting the four main lakes in a day, a 30 km walk.

I set off as the sun rose, crossing the former military airfield at Værløse, the base has recently been transferred to a variety of owners including the kommune, the Arts ministry and the Envionment ministry. The official handover day is Thursday October 24, if you happen to be in the neighbourhood. A history of the base, in English, can be found here. The remnants of the military base are clearly evident, but in time I expect that areas will be converted into housing and businesses, whilst the two large hangars will be used for arts and cultural exhibitions.

Aircraft hangars Værløse airfield.

I have visited the airfield many time to wander and ride the bike, others have skied in the area in winter, flown kites and generally enjoyed the large open space of the airfield. Today however, there was a new addition, white and yellow crosses.

White cross
Clearly intended to indicate that the landing strip once used by large cargo planes was no longer to be used. On the taxiways the crosses were yellow and this one came complete with a rainbow.

Yellow cross and rainbow

Once through the entrance on the eastern side of the airfield I was soon stopping at the first lake Sondersø. The sun was now evident in the east and with the a bird hide as a vantage point I was able to admire the lake in it early morning glory.

Early morning sunshine over Sondersø

Leaving Sondersø my next stop was planned to be Farum Sø some 10 km distant. I had chosen a rather circuitous route that avoided most of the road walking and kept me on walking paths, cycle paths and forest paths. Passing the graveyard adjacent to the Church I admired the carefully ploughed ground and the changing colours of the trees, I recognised that autumn was on its way.

Cultivated land and Kirke Værløse

After passing by the church I followed a footpath along the banks of Værebro Å before crossing the main road and swinging towards Ganløse Ore (forest) also a former shooting range, but now an area well travelled by cyclists, walkers and horse riders. The forest is an area I have visited often, however, this trip took me along the southern fringe of the forest and I was surprised by the short sharp inclines and declines on the trail as I wended my way towards Præstskov (Preist’s forest) an area formerly owned by the local church. Descending to Farum Sø, I noted the breeze and blue skies, along with the impressive Farumgård across the lake. The sun was out but a cool breeze had me donning a warm jacket while drinking coffee. Farum Sø lies in a valley which was formed in the last ice age and there is evidence of human habitation and use for the past 5000 years. Now it is is a popular recreation area especially for the nearby residents as well with easy access from the centre of Copenhagen those from further afield can also enjoy the amenity of the area.  I followed the southern shoreline towards Furesø, the next lake.

Farum Sø

Farum Sø is a popular bird area and with its large bird hide providing an ideal vantage point I stopped to take some time to look out of the water whilst listening the many types of bird calls, most of which I did not recognise.

Birdwatching Farum Sø

There is a connecting stream between Farum Sø and Furesø and at this point the trail which forms part of the Farum Sø circuit walk as well it is an area which has been travelled for thousands of years.

Farum Sø 2

Then under the freeway and railway line.

Under the freeway

Before finally reaching Furesø  and it was time for lunch, and more coffee. The Furesø lake is the deepest in Denmark with a depth of 38 m, and since 2003 efforts to restore the lake, which was formerly one of  the cleanest lakes in Europe, have been ongoing.

Coffee at Furesø

I now followed another well travelled path along the south bank of Furesø, and whilst I have travelled along this path many times there is always something new to see, for this trip, it was the evidence of the onset of autumn.

Changing colours Furesø

The walk through the forest is always enjoyable and whilst very popular it is usually easy to find space and a sense of isolation.

Furesø forest

Having followed the shoreline for a while I located a track that would take me towards Bagsværd Sø, there are no signs on the trails and I suspect many of the trails are a consequence of long term use more than a planned route. Arriving at Bagsværd Sø, the site of a major rowing venue, I sat and looked out over the lake reflecting on the variations in the landscapes, how as the day progressed there was an increasing number of people out walking, running, riding etc. It and been a fun trip, but it was not over yet.

Relaxing Bagsværd Sø

After some time for reflection I headed towards home, some 8 km away, again this was a familiar route having walked it many times, the route included crossing the freeway that I had previously passed under.

Over the Freeway

Passing by the railway line and the nearby station of Hareskov, before entering the final stretch through Hareskov (forest).

The road home Hareskov

From here it was a short walk to the front door.

In summary the walk was just on 30 km. and can be easily accessed by public transport at a number of locations, including train to Farum or Hareskov, by bus to Fiskebæk as well as Hareskov Station. Much of the trip could be easily completed in a bicycle and there are many camping options along Furesø and Farum Sø if you prefer an overnight walk. This route has many possible variations and is a one I can recommend.

This entry was posted in Copenhagen, Denmark, M.ZUIKO 45 mm, M.ZUIKO 9-18mm, Olympus E-P2. Bookmark the permalink.

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