Coastal walking in winter: Ängelholm to Torekov


I alighted from the train at Ängelholm after a 2 hour trip from Copenhagen, there was a light dusting of snow on the ground and the prediction was for temperatures around -5 C with little wind and clearing skies, the next day was to be even colder. I was on familiar ground as I had walked much of this trip before but it seemed like an appropriate walk for a quick get away. I was soon in the forest walking on frozen ground with my pacer poles barely sinking into the earth, I was quickly reminded of the challenge of frozen puddles and the options for ice skating, fortunately I was able to stay standing. The forest walk passed uneventfully with the occasional dog walker looking at me and probably wondering why I was carrying a sleeping mat as no sane person would camp out in this weather. This was the first trip for a while where I had a sleeping mat (Thermarest Ridge Rest) strapped to the outside of my Gorilla pack and there were several times i was asked was I camping out in such cold weather, not a common occurrence I assume in these parts. Soon it was into the summer houses area with many vacant houses with more sliding along icy roads. This section is perhaps the most uninteresting with bitumen bike paths trapped between the railway line and the coastline and as the wind picked up and the sleet began to fall it was not much fun but I knew that soon I would be on the trails passing through the coastal forest.

The forested section though short provided a little shelter from the wind and sleet and allowed for a lunch stop combined with a mist shrouded view of Kullabergs Naturreservat

After lunch the sleet had stopped but the wind was still cool so walked the rest of the afternoon in my Haglöfs Oz Pullover, feeling comfortably warm, however, I did notice some minor condensation inside at the end of the day. I continued north westward along the coast through the large coastal village of Vejbystrand clearly a popular area in summer but deserted now. After which it was about 3 kilometres to camp in the vicinity of Gryteskär shelter, located adjacent to a number of small rocky island which form part of the Bjärekustens naturreservat and are a protected bird sanctuary. However, as soon as the Hilleberg Soulo was up, it began to snow lightly so dinner was prepared on the gas stove in the tent. After dinner it had stopped snowing and I spent the remainder of a very still evening listening to different bird songs.

The next morning was very cool, with a thin layer of ice on the tent and the ground crunching under the feet. The section from Gryteskär to Torekov is mostly off road and follows the cost line within Bjärekustens naturreservat, a narrow strip of land separating the sea from the farming and summerhouse areas. Along this part of the coast there were swans, ducks as well as other sea birds happily drifting with the currents and feeding.

As the sun rose above the horizon, the clouds could be seen clearing further to the south and east and eventually the sun arrived where I was, it did nothing to increase the temperature, the reverse really.

The further along the coast there is less houses and the coastline also becomes rockier, however the views in the clear cold air were wonderful and with no wind it was a pleasure to be out on such a day.

The remainder of the walk was across frozen ground interspersed by the occasional ice covered small lake or stream all ensuring that care was taken when walking whilst appreciating the views.

This is an area of great beauty and on my two visits one in summer and one in winter have ensured that I will return again as there is so much to see and so much space that it is possible to have your own little bit of the coastline.

Have a great new year everyone

This entry was posted in Coastal Walking, Ricoh GX100, Skåneleden, Sweden. Bookmark the permalink.

13 Responses to Coastal walking in winter: Ängelholm to Torekov

  1. Dondo says:

    Loved your latest trip report and photos, Roger. There's something special about walking along the coast when the summer folks have all gone home. What a great way to wind up the year.

  2. Roger says:

    Hej!very nice report from a lovely part of Skåne. Says, like Dondo, that the coastline in winther is nice. Especally when you use to be there in summer and know how crowdy it can be.Happy New Year to you Roger.

  3. Roger – thank you for sharing this trip report. It looks like it was a very peaceful and beautiful trip. Happy new year.

  4. Hendrik M says:

    Its beautiful and peaceful at the Swedish coast, that's what I take away from your trip report. Great photos.Say Roger, any condensation in the Nallo? And how do you like the Ridge Rest and Gorilla (or is there going to be a separate gear post ;)?!

  5. Dondo, thanks, yes the coast is special and something I enjoy wherever I am. I expect that I will be doing a few more coastal trips until the days get a little longer.Thanks Roger, and happy new year to you, I am contemplating more coastal trips and hoping for some more crystal clear and cold days along the coast.Thanks Joe, yes a beautiful trip.Hendrik, as always very astute, the Soulo did have some condensation, however, I have had condensation on a tarp along the coasts so nothing new here. I used the Ridge Rest as a base for the Neo Air, kept me warm and comfy on the frozen ground. I cannot speak highly enough about the GG Gorilla, my challenge now is to work out how I can fit 10 days worth of food as well as other gear in it for Lapland. A full review on the Gorilla will happen after a few more trips.

  6. Martin Rye says:

    Dondo summed it well with "There's something special about walking along the coast when the summer folks have all gone home"That looked a great trip. Peaceful indeed.

  7. Thanks Martin, yep it was peaceful and there are a few more coastal trips planned, before summer, then it will be back to the hills.

  8. Anonymous says:

    That's a lovely walk. I did it in 1997, but in the summer, and there's quite a lot more people around then.Have you tried the bit further, from Torekov to Båstad? I find this even better, because you're more in the woods and you get a lovely view of Bjärehalvön when passing over Hallandsåsen./ Karl

  9. Thanks for your comments Karl, your comments made me wonder how much the area had changed since you visited there in 1997? Geologically probably not a lot, but human intervention possibly a little more. I agree completely about your suggestions on the section from Torekov to Båstad, I walked that section in May 2009, and intend to revisit the area again in the coming months, as it is a picturesque area with many wonderful locations to just sit and enjoy the the sea views as well as it is also easily accessible from Copenhagen by public transport.

  10. Anonymous says:

    There's been quite a few summer houses/cottages built along and just inside the coastline since 1997, so I supposed there was less people (read: tourists) about then. As for the amount of locals, this hasn't changed much. In 1997, I was even one of them :-)If you like to walk through forest, I personally found the part of Skåneleden in the centre north to be the prettiest. If you like open fields, rolling hills and watching the sea, the part in the southeast to south cannot be beaten. Stenshuvud is, and always was, very rewarding.At the time I was doing these walks, some of the wells along the way were bad, so finding clean water was sometimes a bit of a hassle. This was 12-15 years ago, though, so things have surely improved since then./ Karl

  11. Thanks Karl, I walked the full length of the Coast to Coast trail and enjoyed it. If the centre section in the north you are referring to is around Vittsjö I agree completely. I also hope to walk some of the North South Trail in the coming months between Hoor and Vittsjö. The well are generally very good, though winter walking does provide challenges with wells locked or frozen, but there is usually a source of water nearby.Stenshuvud is on my list and may happen in February, if not a bit later in the season, I have visited the area by car but I want to walk that section from Ystad.Once again thanks for the local insight.

  12. Thanks Karl, I walked the full length of the Coast to Coast trail and enjoyed it. If the centre section in the north you are referring to is around Vittsjö I agree completely. I also hope to walk some of the North South Trail in the coming months between Hoor and Vittsjö. The well are generally very good, though winter walking does provide challenges with wells locked or frozen, but there is usually a source of water nearby.Stenshuvud is on my list and may happen in February, if not a bit later in the season, I have visited the area by car but I want to walk that section from Ystad.Once again thanks for the local insight.

  13. Roger – thank you for sharing this trip report. It looks like it was a very peaceful and beautiful trip. Happy new year.

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